Food | Rituals and Traditions – The Jagannath Mahaprasad

Thanks to Odisha’s rich coastline, with a number of rivers crisscrossing across the region, and the fact that the State is endowed with rich alluvial plains suitable for paddy cultivation, there is a wide diversity of cuisine that one finds here. The Jagannath Culture, too, is a major part of Odisha’s culinary heritage and occupies the most important place in the State’s history, heritage and daily life.

The Mahaprasad

The Mahaprasad, its origin, history, importance and the rituals associated with it largely influences the food habits of Odias, in particular, the vegetarian cuisine of regions in and around Puri, Bhubaneswar and Cuttack.

“Lord Jagannath is the Lord of the Universe and He is Great in all respects: His temple is the Great Templa (Bada Deula), the road that he travels during the Car festival is the Highway (Bada Danda); the sea is Mahodadhi; His prasad (offering) is Mahaprasad (Unique and Best food).”

[if !supportLists]- [endif] (Culinary Culture in Srimandir by Haripada Satpathy, Cultural Heritage of Odisha Vol XII Shree Jagannatha Special Volume)

Also known as Chhappanbhog, the Mahaprasad is the only one of its kind in the world and considered most divine than all other prasads. The name Chhappanbhog alludes to the belief that the entire Mahaprasad consists of 56 food items.

The Krishna Factor

As the story goes, these 56 items are presented to the Lord as a symbolic compensation for the 8 daily meals that he missed over 7 days, when he held the Govardhan Mountain above the head of humanity to protect them from torrential rains, brought forth by Rain God Indra’s anger.

The Rituals

'Mahaprasad' is of two types - Sankudi and Sukhila. Both types are available for sale in Ananda Bazaar of the Grand Temple.

[if !supportLists]● [endif]Sankudi Mahaprasad includes items like rice, ghee rice, mixed rice, cumin seed and asaphoetida-ginger rice mixed with salt, and dishes like sweet dal, plain dal mixed with vegetables, mixed curries of different types, Saaga Bhaja', Khatta, porridge etc. All these are offered to the Lord in ritualistic ways.

[if !supportLists]● [endif]Sukhila Mahaprasad consists of dry sweetmeats.

These items, each a delicacy in itself, are supposed to derive their taste from the belief that Mahalakshmi, wife of Lord Jagannath, presides over the kitchen herself. The cooking process is more of a ritual which is adhered to in the strictest manner along with a set of instructions, to ensure that the consistency of taste remains unwavering through generations.

On days when the food is not cooked to perfection, a black dog is said to appear in the kitchen periphery as a warning from the Lord. In such cases, all of the items cooked are disposed off immediately and the entire procedure is repeated from scratch.

The 56 food articles, reflecting the culinary culture of the State and the Vaishnavite food habits, have been enumerated by scholars as follows -

Anna Bhoga

1. Abhada Anna 2. Ghee Anna 3. Kanika 4. Khechudi 5. Dahi Pakhala 6. Mitha Pakhala 7. Ada Pakhala 8. Oria Pakhala 9. Thali Khechudi

Mitha Bhoga

10. Khaja 11. Gaja 12. Ladu 13. Magaja Ladu 14. Jira Ladu 15. Jagannath Ballav 16. Khuruma 17. Mitha Puli 18. Kakara 19. Marichi Ladu 20. Luna Khuruma

Pitha

21. Suara Pitha 22. Jhadeineda 23. Jhilli 24. Kanti 25. Amali 26. Chakuli 27. Poori, 28. Keli 29. Bara 30. Dahibara 31. Arisha 32. Tripura 33. Rosa Paika

Milk Product Offerings

34. Khiri 35. Papudi 36. Khua 37. Rasabali 38. Tadia 39. Chhena Khai 40. Papudi Khaja 41. Khua Manda 42. Sara Puli

Delicacies and Cuisines

43. Dali 44. Biridali 45. Arhad dali 46. Mung dali 47. Dalma 48. Mahura 49. Besara 50. Saga 51. Potala Rasa 42. Goti Baigana 53. Khata 54. Raita 55. Pita 56. Baigini

Lord Jagannath is offered food 6 times a day. These are as follows:

1. Gopala Vallabha Bhoga - The first offering to the Lord takes place in the morning and serves as his breakfast.

2. Sakala Dhupa - The Sakala Dhupa forms his next offering at about 10 o’ clock in the morning. This generally consists of 13 items including the Enduri Cake and Mantha Puli.

3. Bhoga Mandapa Bhoga - The next offering consists of Pakhala with dahi, and Kanji Payasa.

The offering is made at the Bhoga Mandapa, about 200 feet in front of the Ratna Vedi. This is called Chatra Bhog and was introduced by Adi Shankaracharya in the 8th century to help pilgrims share the temple food.

4. The Madhyanha Dhupa - This offering to the Lord is made at noon.

5. Sandhya Dhupa - This offering to the Lord is made in the evening, at approximately 8 o’clock.

6. Bada Simhara Bhoga - The last offering to the Lord.

The Bhoga Khetra

The Mahaprasad is sold in Ananda Bazar or the Pleasure Mart of the temple which is situated on the north-east corner of the outer enclosure of the temple. It is the biggest open-air eatery in the world where every day thousands of devotees purchase and eat together irrespective of caste, creed and status. That is why, the place is also known as the Bhoga Khetra.

The Rosaighara, or the kitchen, of the temple is located within the Meghanad Pacheri, or the boundary wall, in the south-east corner of the temple precinct and is one of the largest kitchens in the world serving up to one lakh devotees per day. It is said that it was built by Shri Dibyasingha Deb between 1682 and 1713 C.E, as the previous kitchen, located behind the Laxmi Narayan Temple was proving to be too small to handle all the preparation.

Since outsiders are prohibited in the kitchen, much of the information about it is confidential. It is operated under a code of strict confidentiality that has been handed down through generations to the Suaras, Mahasuaras and Supakars – God’s own cooks, who have been hereditarily connected to the Shree Jagannath Temple service for centuries through the Sevayat system.

The offering of Mahaprasada does not take place on the 21 days preceding Rath Yatra as the Lord is said to be suffering from high fever. Further, upon initiation of the Rath Yatra, the earthen portion of the entire kitchen is broken down, and built anew.

During the Rath Yatra, the kitchen and the Ananda Bazaar are both relocated at the Gundicha Temple. However, the Mahaprasad is cooked and sold in the Ananda Bazar as usual. In fact, all the rituals of the rituals - from Mangal Alati to Pahada are observed, the only difference being that the deities are represented by the patachitra pictures of the siblings placed on a platform near the Bhitarkatha area of the temple while the Trinity remains in Anasar Ghara or the sick room.

The cooking of Mahaprasad is not done on the Bahuda (return journey of the chariots to the temple from Sri Gundicha) day until the deities re-enter their original abode following Niladri Bije and are placed on their bejewelled throne. The temple kitchen lies idle for around 13 days while the devotees have to go without Mahaprasad for about a week.

At present, there are more than 500 cooks, and 300 assistants and porters for the carriage of raw materials in the kitchen. It is estimated that the kitchen covers a quadrangle of sides 45 metres each, at an elevated level of 2 metres above the ground. The number of chulhas or cooking stoves is estimated to be anything between 150 and 750. Upon these chulhas, earthen pots are stacked up to 9 layers, with the steam from each pot being used to cook the one above. Surplus water from the pots, once cooked, is removed by an expert piercing of the earthen pots by an iron spoon.

Once the food is ready, it is first offered to the Jagannath Temple and then Maa Bimala Temple. It is said that on the way from the kitchen to the temple, no aroma rises from the offering. It is only after the offering is made that its fragrance becomes perceivable. After it has been blessed, a portion of it is sent to the families of the temple’s servitors, and the rest is sold at Ananda Bazaar. This Mahaprasad is freely consumed by people of all castes and creeds without any discrimination. It is said that Mahaprasad consolidates human bond, sanctifies sacraments and grooms the departing soul for its journey to heaven. According to "Skanda Purana" Lord Jagannath redeems the devotees by permitting them to partake His Mahaprasad, to have His darshan and to worship Him by observing rituals and by offering of gifts. Mahaprasad is treated here as 'Anna Brahma'.